Here are some Spring Lawn Care Cleanup Basics:

Overall Clean-up: Mid-March is the time to get those fallen leaves, branches and neighborhood trash up from the yard and flower beds–in other words, spring cleanup! Power blowers work best, but if you don’t have a blower use a rake to get to the debris. Be sure to go lightly on the raking! If your lawn is still wet, wait to rake until it’s dry. Use a light raking to “fluff up” the lawn, separating grass shoots and increasing air circulation. Spring lawn cleanup is a great time to get a good overview of the state of your lawn– dead spots, matted patches, thatch or compacted soil. DON’T do a power raking or aeration on your lawn- YET. It’s advised that you avoid the practice of aggressively raking until the lawn if quite firm, usually in late April or even May. This will reduce the amount of damage to tender grass plants as they are breaking dormancy..  Also, be sure to clean up the dog poo while you’re out there– your lawn will thank you.

Test your Soil’s PH: There is no better way to save money on water and soil amendments than getting a handle on what your lawn actually needs. Do-it-yourself soil test kits are a great way to learn about soil health, and can be purchased at a home improvement store or your local nursery. You can also purchase testing meters that measure pH, moisture and light.  A soil test determines whether your soil is acidic, neutral or alkaline, and indicate which elements are missing and how much to add to remedy the problem. Since soil is made up of minerals, organic matter (living and dead), healthy soil provides nutrients and serves as a foundation for healthy plants. Improve your soil and plant health and enjoy a beautiful lawn or garden for a lifetime. 

CSU Lawncheck: CSU provides an inexpensive, on-site lawn consultation service conducted by CSU horticultural specialists who will come to your home and make recommendations for improving your lawn and solving insect, disease and other lawn problems.   For more information: http://lawncheck.colostate.edu

CSU Lawncheck is currently available from Colorado State University Extension offices in the following counties:

• Adams – (303)-637-8100
• Arapahoe – (303) 730-1920
• Boulder – (303) 678-6238
• Denver/Jefferson – (303) 271-6620
• Larimer – (970) 498-6000

CSU Extension office: A great resource, by phone or email If you have lawn questions, and there’s no charge. Your message should include a short, detailed description of the problem and its location in the landscape.

Overseeding:  Got bare patches or winter kill?  Spring lawn cleanup is also the perfect time to lay down seed to patch these areas. You can use plain seed or a repair mix that incorporates mulch.  The first step is to rake out some of the dead in the area. You don’t have to remove it completely. “Fan” a very thin layer of soil/compost mix over the area. Next, spread the seed lightly without overcrowding. Finally, lightly drag the seed into the soil with the back of your hand or the back of a rake. This will insure that the seed is in full contact with the ground, but not buried.

If you seed in late March, don’t water the new seed. The spring weather will probably take care of getting the seed off to a good start. In later April or May, you will need to water at once and keep the seed bed moist for 30 days while the seed grows.

Apply Fertilizer: Many homeowners apply way too much fertilizer at the first sign of green grass growth. In reality, the best thing to do is to apply a light amount of fertilizer in early spring, and then apply a larger dose a bit later in the season, after the initial growth rush. It may seem early to start fertilizing but if you’re looking for the “Best Yard on the Block” award, fertilizing now is going to help your lawn wake up quicker and stronger.

CSU – Homeowner’s Guide to Fertilizing your Lawn & Garden

Apply Pre-Emergent Herbicide: It’s often easier to fight weeds before they even emerge, rather than waiting until they rear their ugly heads. Mid-March is the best time to control crabgrass and other weeds, because they will not be growing yet but will begin to very soon. Herbicide is less effective once weeds have significantly grown and developed. At that point, good ol’ fashion weed plucking may be your best option.

Prepare your Mower: Would you allow a hairstylist to cut your hair with a pair of dull scissors? It’s time to tune-up your lawn mower and sharpen or replace your lawn mower blades.  Dull blades tear the grass leaf instead of cutting it smoothly. Tearing weakens the grass plant and can promote disease and insects. Be sure to clean matted grass from the underside of the mower.  Is it time for a new spark plug? Engine Oil? Fuel Filter? If you need assistance, consult an expert in your area.

Different grass types have different optimum mowing lengths. For Bluegrass and Fescue, a height of about 2 to 2.5 inches for the first few spring mowings is good.  After that you should raise the mowing deck to a height of about 3 inches. It’s never healthy for your lawn if you cut more than 1/3 of the grass height at a time, and be sure to sharpen those blades again in late July or early August if you have an average lot size. One last tip–change your mowing pattern each time you mow.  This will prevent wearing of track marks on your lawn.

Aeration: In late April, revisit your soil health by aerating.  Aeration involves perforating the soil with small holes to allow air, water and nutrients to penetrate the grass roots. This helps the roots grow deeply and produce a stronger, more vigorous lawn. The main reason for aerating is to alleviate soil compaction.

Dethatching: Healthy grass has some thatch. Korby Sod does not recommend dethatching unless you know for a fact you have an excessive thatch issue. A thatch layer less than 1/2″ thick is not a problem. If the thatch layer gets thick enough that water and air have trouble getting to grass roots, that is excessive. To measure the thickness of thatch, poke through the brown layer of thatch to the top of the soil at the bottom of the grass blades. Measure the thickness of the thatch layer from there.  If you decide it’s needed, a vigorous raking or power raking for excessive thatch should only be done in late April or early May.

Schedule your order for delivery of turf after preparatory work is completed and you are ready to install. Prompt installation on the day of delivery is crucial to a strong beginning for your lawn.

For a more complete guide on measuring sod click here

Measuring for Sod, Soil Preparation, Installation, and Watering

Proper sod installation and maintenance allows you to enjoy a lawn of instant beauty and maturity without the usual time-consuming hassles of seeding. When purchasing turfgrass sod, consult a member of the Korby Sod LLC Installation team to be assured that you are getting the finest quality and best performing sod for your area. The following are the basic steps to a beautiful lawn.

STEP 1 – Measuring and Ordering

With a tape, measure the area of your planned lawn. Include these measurements on a sketch of the lawn area, with the length, width, and any unusual features. Your local TPI member will be happy to assist you in determining the amount of turfgrass sod you will need from your sketch.

Schedule your order for delivery of turf after preparatory work is completed and you are ready to install. Prompt installation on the day of delivery is crucial to a strong beginning for your lawn.

STEP 2 – Soil Preparation

For best result, rototill or spade the area to a depth of 10 to 15 cm. (4 to 6 in.). Eliminate drainage problems by having soil slope away from foundations, etc.

Soil test your lawn area with the assistance of qualified service in your area. Then rake in fertilizer, lime, peat, compost, etc. as need to a depth of 7 to 10 cm. (3 to 4 in.). Rake and smooth the soil removing rocks, roots, and large clods. Roll the area lightly with a lawn roller 1/3 full of water. This will firm the soil surface and reveal low areas that need more soil. Keep the grade 2 to 3 cm. (1 in.) below sidewalks or driveway.

Water the prepared area to settle soil and provide a moist base for turf. Moistening to a depth of 15 cm. (6 in.) is recommended for most soils. However, consult with your local TPI member regarding your specific soil needs.

STEP 3 – Sod Installation

Install your lawn immediately upon delivery. Begin watering lawn within 30 minutes of installation. Turf is a living plant that requires ground contact and moisture to survive!

In hot weather, protect unlaid turf by placing stacks in shade, covering with moist burlap sacking, and/or sprinkling.

Begin installing turf along the longest straight line, such as a driveway or sidewalk. Butt and push edges and ends against each other tightly, without stretching. Avoid gaps or overlaps. Stagger the joints in each row in a brick-like fashion, using a large sharp knife to trim corners, etc. Avoid leaving small strips at outer edges as they will not retain moisture. On slopes, place the turf pieces across the slope.

To avoid causing indentations or air pockets avoid repeated walking or kneeling on the turf while it is being installed or just after watering.

After installing the turf, roll the entire area to improve turf/soil contact and remove air pockets.

STEP 4 – Watering

Give your new lawn at least 2 to 3 cm. (1 in.) of water within 1/2 hour of installation. Water daily, or more often, keeping turf moist until it is firmly rooted (about 2 weeks). Then less frequent and deeper watering should begin.
soil
Weather conditions will dictate the amount and frequency of watering. Be certain that your new lawn has enough moisture to survive hot, dry, or windy periods. Water areas near building more often where reflected heat dries the turf.

Caution:

During the first three weeks, avoid heavy or concentrated use of your new lawn. This gives the roots an opportunity to firmly knit with the soil, and insures that the turf will remain smooth.

Maintenance:

Your new sod lawn increases your property value significantly. With proper care, it will remain a great asset, providing beauty, a clean playing surface, and an improved environment.

Mow often, generally removing no more than 1/3 of the grass height at a mowing. Keep your mower blade sharp. Follow local TPI mowing recommendations for your type of lawn.

Fertilizer and chemical applications will depend on climate, sod type, soil, insects, weed and disease conditions.

For fertilizer and maintenance requirements, consult your local TPI member or an extension agent.

This article is from TurfGrassSod.org

Prepare the site properly. This will insure the best results when the sod is laid. Remove weeds and debris, rough grade low spots, rototill a minimum of 3 cubic yards of organics per 1,000 square feet at least 4 inches deep. Level and rake the installation site until it is smooth. Grade sidewalk and driveway areas approximately one and one half inch below the top of the concrete.

INSTALL SOD WITHIN 24 HOURS OF DELIVERY.

Immediately Following Sodding

Water your new sod three times daily for the first two weeks. The sod should be kept damp, about 1/2 inch per day for the first 2-3 days. Keep trarffic across the new sod to a minimum. Heavy traffic will separate and disturb the underlying grade. After three weeks, adjust the water times and sprinkler clocks to conform to the water restriction program in your area.

Water Your New Turf

Make certain that all areas of your new lawn are getting water. Corners and edges are sometimes missed by the sprinkler system. Look for areas that might slope causing water to run off. Water with a hose-end sprinkler if necessary. Early morning watering is best to take advantage of the grass’s normal growing cycle.

How Much Water

One inch per week is standard for most lawns but will vary with temperatures and sod variety.

First Mowing

Wait until your grass reaches a height of 3.5 inches to 4 inches before the first mowing. Adjust the height to approximately 3 inches and be sure the blades are sharp. Do not water the day before mowing. Do not remove more than 1/3 of the grass blade per mowing.

Here are some Spring Lawn Care Cleanup Basics:

Overall Clean-up: Mid-March is the time to get those fallen leaves, branches and neighborhood trash up from the yard and flower beds–in other words, spring cleanup! Power blowers work best, but if you don’t have a blower use a rake to get to the debris. Be sure to go lightly on the raking! If your lawn is still wet, wait to rake until it’s dry. Use a light raking to “fluff up” the lawn, separating grass shoots and increasing air circulation. Spring lawn cleanup is a great time to get a good overview of the state of your lawn– dead spots, matted patches, thatch or compacted soil. DON’T do a power raking or aeration on your lawn- YET. It’s advised that you avoid the practice of aggressively raking until the lawn if quite firm, usually in late April or even May. This will reduce the amount of damage to tender grass plants as they are breaking dormancy..  Also, be sure to clean up the dog poo while you’re out there– your lawn will thank you.

Test your Soil’s PH: There is no better way to save money on water and soil amendments than getting a handle on what your lawn actually needs. Do-it-yourself soil test kits are a great way to learn about soil health, and can be purchased at a home improvement store or your local nursery. You can also purchase testing meters that measure pH, moisture and light.  A soil test determines whether your soil is acidic, neutral or alkaline, and indicate which elements are missing and how much to add to remedy the problem. Since soil is made up of minerals, organic matter (living and dead), healthy soil provides nutrients and serves as a foundation for healthy plants. Improve your soil and plant health and enjoy a beautiful lawn or garden for a lifetime. 

CSU Lawncheck: CSU provides an inexpensive, on-site lawn consultation service conducted by CSU horticultural specialists who will come to your home and make recommendations for improving your lawn and solving insect, disease and other lawn problems.   For more information: http://lawncheck.colostate.edu

CSU Lawncheck is currently available from Colorado State University Extension offices in the following counties:

• Adams – (303)-637-8100
• Arapahoe – (303) 730-1920
• Boulder – (303) 678-6238
• Denver/Jefferson – (303) 271-6620
• Larimer – (970) 498-6000

CSU Extension office: A great resource, by phone or email If you have lawn questions, and there’s no charge. Your message should include a short, detailed description of the problem and its location in the landscape.

Overseeding:  Got bare patches or winter kill?  Spring lawn cleanup is also the perfect time to lay down seed to patch these areas. You can use plain seed or a repair mix that incorporates mulch.  The first step is to rake out some of the dead in the area. You don’t have to remove it completely. “Fan” a very thin layer of soil/compost mix over the area. Next, spread the seed lightly without overcrowding. Finally, lightly drag the seed into the soil with the back of your hand or the back of a rake. This will insure that the seed is in full contact with the ground, but not buried.

If you seed in late March, don’t water the new seed. The spring weather will probably take care of getting the seed off to a good start. In later April or May, you will need to water at once and keep the seed bed moist for 30 days while the seed grows.

Apply Fertilizer: Many homeowners apply way too much fertilizer at the first sign of green grass growth. In reality, the best thing to do is to apply a light amount of fertilizer in early spring, and then apply a larger dose a bit later in the season, after the initial growth rush. It may seem early to start fertilizing but if you’re looking for the “Best Yard on the Block” award, fertilizing now is going to help your lawn wake up quicker and stronger.

CSU – Homeowner’s Guide to Fertilizing your Lawn & Garden

Apply Pre-Emergent Herbicide: It’s often easier to fight weeds before they even emerge, rather than waiting until they rear their ugly heads. Mid-March is the best time to control crabgrass and other weeds, because they will not be growing yet but will begin to very soon. Herbicide is less effective once weeds have significantly grown and developed. At that point, good ol’ fashion weed plucking may be your best option.

Prepare your Mower: Would you allow a hairstylist to cut your hair with a pair of dull scissors? It’s time to tune-up your lawn mower and sharpen or replace your lawn mower blades.  Dull blades tear the grass leaf instead of cutting it smoothly. Tearing weakens the grass plant and can promote disease and insects. Be sure to clean matted grass from the underside of the mower.  Is it time for a new spark plug? Engine Oil? Fuel Filter? If you need assistance, consult an expert in your area.

Different grass types have different optimum mowing lengths. For Bluegrass and Fescue, a height of about 2 to 2.5 inches for the first few spring mowings is good.  After that you should raise the mowing deck to a height of about 3 inches. It’s never healthy for your lawn if you cut more than 1/3 of the grass height at a time, and be sure to sharpen those blades again in late July or early August if you have an average lot size. One last tip–change your mowing pattern each time you mow.  This will prevent wearing of track marks on your lawn.

Aeration: In late April, revisit your soil health by aerating.  Aeration involves perforating the soil with small holes to allow air, water and nutrients to penetrate the grass roots. This helps the roots grow deeply and produce a stronger, more vigorous lawn. The main reason for aerating is to alleviate soil compaction.

Dethatching: Healthy grass has some thatch. Korby Sod does not recommend dethatching unless you know for a fact you have an excessive thatch issue. A thatch layer less than 1/2″ thick is not a problem. If the thatch layer gets thick enough that water and air have trouble getting to grass roots, that is excessive. To measure the thickness of thatch, poke through the brown layer of thatch to the top of the soil at the bottom of the grass blades. Measure the thickness of the thatch layer from there.  If you decide it’s needed, a vigorous raking or power raking for excessive thatch should only be done in late April or early May.

Define Your Landscaping Goals

What do you use your backyard for? Do you have kids that like playing on the lawn, pets needing an area for their use? There are many uses that a backyard can serve and having a plan of what those uses are for you and your family is important. For those putting some trees and grass in nearby nurseries can be a great start to look at options. For Sod Korby Sod is a sod farm conveniently located with delivery or pickup in many places throughout Colorado and Wyoming. Call us for details at (970) 568-7633.

Landscape Design

If you find yourself wanting to spend a lot of time in your yard and would like it landscaped with particulars in mind a great option to consider is a landscape designer. When preparing to meet with a landscape designer it is recommended to have goals and what you want from your yard. He/She can then help you decide what trees, plants to put in, how far, and what is best for your soil and what will thrive in your yard as well as how to best layout space for your goals.

Avoid Sticker Shock

A basic landscape design can run around $10 – $15 per square foot. For additional features, you are going to most likely be around $25 to $35 per square foot. Trees can also run $500 – $1,000 for delivery and installation. Working directly with us regarding your sod can save you money with lower prices as you can work directly with the sod farm. We can also help you through understanding the installation process of your sod. With these elements in mind, yards can run anywhere from $5,000 and up.

Once you have your landscape design and goals of your year put together you can also set milestones each year. This will help spread the cost over years of time with still allowing you to have the yard of your dreams without so much upfront expenditure.

Some Options for Getting Started:

Installing trees and lawn is a great start with getting going. If you have questions regarding the sod or are looking for great prices in Colorado or Wyoming give us a call today. (720) 738-7272. Professionals to consider for your yard would most likely fall into the following categories.

Lawn-maintenance company – Maintaining your yard such as pruning, lawn mowing, blowing leaves, etc.

Arborists – has a lot of knowledge about trees, what conditions and what types of trees will grow well in your yard and work well for your landscaping needs.

Landscape designer – A designer can help you create your vision of what you are looking for in a yard. It is recommended to have goals in mind with your backyard and then a landscape designer will come measure and layout your backyard to help you achieve that look you are after.

Landscape architect – These are pros that work on residential and commercial landscaping projects. They require licensing in many states including Colorado whereas a designer does not. Typically landscape architects are used for larger scale projects.

“More often than not, the quality of the plants included with these too-good-to-be-true landscaping offers is very poor and does not meet minimum industry or mandated standards in the Colorado Nursery Act,” said Laura Pottorff, CDA’s Program Manager for the Nursery, Phytosanitary, Plant-Pest Quarantine, and Seed programs. “Trees and other landscape plants are a significant investment made to add value to our property. Be wise and informed.”

Anyone looking to sell nursery stock including trees, shrubs, turfgrass, sod, and other perennial plants must be registered with the state. This is required by the Colorado Nursery Act which helps protect homeowners. Plant materials offered for sale must meet strict standards for plant health and pest freedom that gives these trees and other plans an increased rate of survival.

Korby Sod was established in 1980. We have been green for over 39 years. We offer the highest quality sod for your home with excellent service in Colorado and Wyoming with delivery, installation, and pickup services available. Are sod varieties include Vortex, Athletic Sports Turf, Black Beauty. Give us a call today to talk directly to our sod farm and help with your sod needs. Denver (970) 568-7633, Wellington (970) 568-7633 or Toll-Free (844) 285-5606.

Time to start caring for your lawn to get it strong and healthy for the summer months. Having a great lawn begins in the spring! Here are some Spring Lawn Care Cleanup Basics:

Overall Clean-up: Mid-March is time to get those fallen leaves, branches and neighborhood trash up from the yard and flower beds. Power blowers work best, but if you don’t have a blower use a rake to get to the debris. Be sure to go lightly on the raking! If your lawn is s all wet, wait to rake un l it’s dry. Use a springy, light rake to “fluff up” the lawn, separate ng grass shoots and increasing air circulation on. Now is a great me to get a good overview of the state of your lawn– dead spots, ma􀀁ed patches, thatch or compacted soil. DON’T do a power raking or area on your lawn- YET. It’s advised that you avoid the practice of aggressively raking un l the lawn if quite firm, usually in late April or even May. This will reduce the amount of damage to tender grass plants as they are breaking dormancy.. Also, be sure to clean up the dog poo while you’re out there– your lawn will thank you.

Test your Soil’s PH : There is no better way to save money on water and soil amendments than going a handle on what your lawn actually needs. Do-it-yourself soil test kits are a great way to learn about soil health, and can be purchased at a home improvement store or your local nursery. You can also purchase testing meters that measure pH, moisture and light. A soil test determines whether your soil is acidic, neutral or alkaline, and indicate which elements are missing and how much to add to remedy the problem. Since soil is made up of minerals, organic matter (living and dead), healthy soil provides nutrients and serves as a foundation for healthy plants. Improve your soil and plant health and enjoy a beautiful lawn or garden for a lifetime.

CSU Lawncheck: CSU provides an inexpensive, on-site lawn consult on service conducted by CSU hor cultural specialists who will come to your home and make recommendations for improving your lawn and solving insect, disease and other lawn problems. For more information: http://lawncheck.colostate.edu

CSU Lawncheck is currently available from Colorado State University Extension offices in the following counties:

● Adams – (303)-637-8100
● Arapahoe – (303) 730-1920
● Boulder – (303) 678-6238
● Denver/Jefferson – (303) 271-6620
● Larimer – (970) 498-6000

CSU Extension office: A great resource, by phone or email If you have lawn questions, and there’s no charge. Your message should include a short, detailed description of the problem and its location on in the landscape.

Overseeding: Got bare patches or winter kill? Early spring is time to lay down seed to patch these areas. You can use plain seed or a repair mix that incorporates mulch. The first step is to rake out some of the dead in the area. You don’t have to remove it completely. “Fan” a very thin layer of soil/compost mix over the area. Next, spread the seed lightly without overcrowding. Finally, lightly drag the seed into the soil with the back of your hand or the back of a rake. This will ensure that the seed is in full contact with the ground, but not buried.

If you seed in late March, don’t water the new seed. The spring weather
will probably take care of getting the seed off to a good start. In later April or May, you will need to water at once and keep the seedbed moist for 30 days while the seed grows.

Apply Fertilizer: Many homeowners apply way too much fertilizer at the first sign of green grass growth. In reality, the best thing to do is to apply a light amount of fertilizer in early spring, and then apply a larger dose a bit later in the season, after the inial growth rush. It may seem early to start fertilizing but if you’re looking for the “Best Yard on the Block” award, fertilizing now is going to help your lawn wake up quicker and stronger.
CSU – Homeowner’s Guide to Fertilizing your Lawn & Garden

Apply Pre-Emergent Herbicide: It’s often easier to fight weeds before they even emerge, rather than wai ng un l they rear their ugly heads. Mid-March is the best me to control crabgrass and other weeds because they will not be growing yet, but will begin very soon. The herbicide is less effec ve once weeds have significantly grown and developed. At that point, good ol’ fashion weed plucking may be your best op on.

Prepare your Mower: Would you allow a hairstylist to cut your hair with a pair of dull scissors? It’s me to tune-up your lawn mower and sharpen or replace your lawn mower blades. Dull blades tear the grass leaf instead of cutting it smoothly. Tearing weakens the grass plant and can promote disease and insects. Be sure to clean ma􀀃ed grass from the underside of the mower. Is it me for a new spark plug? Engine Oil? Fuel Filter? If you need assistance, consult an expert in your area.
Different grass types have different op mum mowing lengths. For Bluegrass and Fescue, a height of about 2 to 2.5 inches for the first few spring mowings is good. After that, you should raise the mowing deck to a height of about 3 inches. It’s never healthy for your lawn if you cut more than 1/3 of the grass height at a time, and be sure to sharpen those blades again in late July or early August if you have an average lot size. One last p–change your mowing pattern each me you mow. This will prevent wearing of track marks on your lawn.

Aeration: In late April, revisit your soil health by aerating. Aerating on involves perforating the soil with small holes to allow air, water, and nutrients to penetrate the grassroots. This helps the roots grow deeper and produce a stronger, more vigorous lawn. The main reason for aerating is to alleviate soil compaction.

Dethatching : Healthy grass has some thatch. Korby Sod does not recommend dethatching unless you know for a fact you have an excessive thatch issue. A thatch layer less than 1/2ʺ thick is not a problem. If the thatch layer gets thick enough that water and air have trouble going to grassroots, that is excessive. To measure the thickness of thatch, poke through the grass un l you find the brown layer near the bottom of the grass blade. With your finger or a stick, poke a hole through the brown layer to the top of the soil. Measure the thickness of the thatch. A vigorous raking or power raking should only be done in late April or early May.