Here are some Spring Lawn Care Cleanup Basics:

Overall Clean-up: Mid-March is the time to get those fallen leaves, branches and neighborhood trash up from the yard and flower beds–in other words, spring cleanup! Power blowers work best, but if you don’t have a blower use a rake to get to the debris. Be sure to go lightly on the raking! If your lawn is still wet, wait to rake until it’s dry. Use a light raking to “fluff up” the lawn, separating grass shoots and increasing air circulation. Spring lawn cleanup is a great time to get a good overview of the state of your lawn– dead spots, matted patches, thatch or compacted soil. DON’T do a power raking or aeration on your lawn- YET. It’s advised that you avoid the practice of aggressively raking until the lawn if quite firm, usually in late April or even May. This will reduce the amount of damage to tender grass plants as they are breaking dormancy..  Also, be sure to clean up the dog poo while you’re out there– your lawn will thank you.

Test your Soil’s PH: There is no better way to save money on water and soil amendments than getting a handle on what your lawn actually needs. Do-it-yourself soil test kits are a great way to learn about soil health, and can be purchased at a home improvement store or your local nursery. You can also purchase testing meters that measure pH, moisture and light.  A soil test determines whether your soil is acidic, neutral or alkaline, and indicate which elements are missing and how much to add to remedy the problem. Since soil is made up of minerals, organic matter (living and dead), healthy soil provides nutrients and serves as a foundation for healthy plants. Improve your soil and plant health and enjoy a beautiful lawn or garden for a lifetime. 

CSU Lawncheck: CSU provides an inexpensive, on-site lawn consultation service conducted by CSU horticultural specialists who will come to your home and make recommendations for improving your lawn and solving insect, disease and other lawn problems.   For more information: http://lawncheck.colostate.edu

CSU Lawncheck is currently available from Colorado State University Extension offices in the following counties:

• Adams – (303)-637-8100
• Arapahoe – (303) 730-1920
• Boulder – (303) 678-6238
• Denver/Jefferson – (303) 271-6620
• Larimer – (970) 498-6000

CSU Extension office: A great resource, by phone or email If you have lawn questions, and there’s no charge. Your message should include a short, detailed description of the problem and its location in the landscape.

Overseeding:  Got bare patches or winter kill?  Spring lawn cleanup is also the perfect time to lay down seed to patch these areas. You can use plain seed or a repair mix that incorporates mulch.  The first step is to rake out some of the dead in the area. You don’t have to remove it completely. “Fan” a very thin layer of soil/compost mix over the area. Next, spread the seed lightly without overcrowding. Finally, lightly drag the seed into the soil with the back of your hand or the back of a rake. This will insure that the seed is in full contact with the ground, but not buried.

If you seed in late March, don’t water the new seed. The spring weather will probably take care of getting the seed off to a good start. In later April or May, you will need to water at once and keep the seed bed moist for 30 days while the seed grows.

Apply Fertilizer: Many homeowners apply way too much fertilizer at the first sign of green grass growth. In reality, the best thing to do is to apply a light amount of fertilizer in early spring, and then apply a larger dose a bit later in the season, after the initial growth rush. It may seem early to start fertilizing but if you’re looking for the “Best Yard on the Block” award, fertilizing now is going to help your lawn wake up quicker and stronger.

CSU – Homeowner’s Guide to Fertilizing your Lawn & Garden

Apply Pre-Emergent Herbicide: It’s often easier to fight weeds before they even emerge, rather than waiting until they rear their ugly heads. Mid-March is the best time to control crabgrass and other weeds, because they will not be growing yet but will begin to very soon. Herbicide is less effective once weeds have significantly grown and developed. At that point, good ol’ fashion weed plucking may be your best option.

Prepare your Mower: Would you allow a hairstylist to cut your hair with a pair of dull scissors? It’s time to tune-up your lawn mower and sharpen or replace your lawn mower blades.  Dull blades tear the grass leaf instead of cutting it smoothly. Tearing weakens the grass plant and can promote disease and insects. Be sure to clean matted grass from the underside of the mower.  Is it time for a new spark plug? Engine Oil? Fuel Filter? If you need assistance, consult an expert in your area.

Different grass types have different optimum mowing lengths. For Bluegrass and Fescue, a height of about 2 to 2.5 inches for the first few spring mowings is good.  After that you should raise the mowing deck to a height of about 3 inches. It’s never healthy for your lawn if you cut more than 1/3 of the grass height at a time, and be sure to sharpen those blades again in late July or early August if you have an average lot size. One last tip–change your mowing pattern each time you mow.  This will prevent wearing of track marks on your lawn.

Aeration: In late April, revisit your soil health by aerating.  Aeration involves perforating the soil with small holes to allow air, water and nutrients to penetrate the grass roots. This helps the roots grow deeply and produce a stronger, more vigorous lawn. The main reason for aerating is to alleviate soil compaction.

Dethatching: Healthy grass has some thatch. Korby Sod does not recommend dethatching unless you know for a fact you have an excessive thatch issue. A thatch layer less than 1/2″ thick is not a problem. If the thatch layer gets thick enough that water and air have trouble getting to grass roots, that is excessive. To measure the thickness of thatch, poke through the brown layer of thatch to the top of the soil at the bottom of the grass blades. Measure the thickness of the thatch layer from there.  If you decide it’s needed, a vigorous raking or power raking for excessive thatch should only be done in late April or early May.

Here are some Spring Lawn Care Cleanup Basics:

Overall Clean-up: Mid-March is the time to get those fallen leaves, branches and neighborhood trash up from the yard and flower beds–in other words, spring cleanup! Power blowers work best, but if you don’t have a blower use a rake to get to the debris. Be sure to go lightly on the raking! If your lawn is still wet, wait to rake until it’s dry. Use a light raking to “fluff up” the lawn, separating grass shoots and increasing air circulation. Spring lawn cleanup is a great time to get a good overview of the state of your lawn– dead spots, matted patches, thatch or compacted soil. DON’T do a power raking or aeration on your lawn- YET. It’s advised that you avoid the practice of aggressively raking until the lawn if quite firm, usually in late April or even May. This will reduce the amount of damage to tender grass plants as they are breaking dormancy..  Also, be sure to clean up the dog poo while you’re out there– your lawn will thank you.

Test your Soil’s PH: There is no better way to save money on water and soil amendments than getting a handle on what your lawn actually needs. Do-it-yourself soil test kits are a great way to learn about soil health, and can be purchased at a home improvement store or your local nursery. You can also purchase testing meters that measure pH, moisture and light.  A soil test determines whether your soil is acidic, neutral or alkaline, and indicate which elements are missing and how much to add to remedy the problem. Since soil is made up of minerals, organic matter (living and dead), healthy soil provides nutrients and serves as a foundation for healthy plants. Improve your soil and plant health and enjoy a beautiful lawn or garden for a lifetime. 

CSU Lawncheck: CSU provides an inexpensive, on-site lawn consultation service conducted by CSU horticultural specialists who will come to your home and make recommendations for improving your lawn and solving insect, disease and other lawn problems.   For more information: http://lawncheck.colostate.edu

CSU Lawncheck is currently available from Colorado State University Extension offices in the following counties:

• Adams – (303)-637-8100
• Arapahoe – (303) 730-1920
• Boulder – (303) 678-6238
• Denver/Jefferson – (303) 271-6620
• Larimer – (970) 498-6000

CSU Extension office: A great resource, by phone or email If you have lawn questions, and there’s no charge. Your message should include a short, detailed description of the problem and its location in the landscape.

Overseeding:  Got bare patches or winter kill?  Spring lawn cleanup is also the perfect time to lay down seed to patch these areas. You can use plain seed or a repair mix that incorporates mulch.  The first step is to rake out some of the dead in the area. You don’t have to remove it completely. “Fan” a very thin layer of soil/compost mix over the area. Next, spread the seed lightly without overcrowding. Finally, lightly drag the seed into the soil with the back of your hand or the back of a rake. This will insure that the seed is in full contact with the ground, but not buried.

If you seed in late March, don’t water the new seed. The spring weather will probably take care of getting the seed off to a good start. In later April or May, you will need to water at once and keep the seed bed moist for 30 days while the seed grows.

Apply Fertilizer: Many homeowners apply way too much fertilizer at the first sign of green grass growth. In reality, the best thing to do is to apply a light amount of fertilizer in early spring, and then apply a larger dose a bit later in the season, after the initial growth rush. It may seem early to start fertilizing but if you’re looking for the “Best Yard on the Block” award, fertilizing now is going to help your lawn wake up quicker and stronger.

CSU – Homeowner’s Guide to Fertilizing your Lawn & Garden

Apply Pre-Emergent Herbicide: It’s often easier to fight weeds before they even emerge, rather than waiting until they rear their ugly heads. Mid-March is the best time to control crabgrass and other weeds, because they will not be growing yet but will begin to very soon. Herbicide is less effective once weeds have significantly grown and developed. At that point, good ol’ fashion weed plucking may be your best option.

Prepare your Mower: Would you allow a hairstylist to cut your hair with a pair of dull scissors? It’s time to tune-up your lawn mower and sharpen or replace your lawn mower blades.  Dull blades tear the grass leaf instead of cutting it smoothly. Tearing weakens the grass plant and can promote disease and insects. Be sure to clean matted grass from the underside of the mower.  Is it time for a new spark plug? Engine Oil? Fuel Filter? If you need assistance, consult an expert in your area.

Different grass types have different optimum mowing lengths. For Bluegrass and Fescue, a height of about 2 to 2.5 inches for the first few spring mowings is good.  After that you should raise the mowing deck to a height of about 3 inches. It’s never healthy for your lawn if you cut more than 1/3 of the grass height at a time, and be sure to sharpen those blades again in late July or early August if you have an average lot size. One last tip–change your mowing pattern each time you mow.  This will prevent wearing of track marks on your lawn.

Aeration: In late April, revisit your soil health by aerating.  Aeration involves perforating the soil with small holes to allow air, water and nutrients to penetrate the grass roots. This helps the roots grow deeply and produce a stronger, more vigorous lawn. The main reason for aerating is to alleviate soil compaction.

Dethatching: Healthy grass has some thatch. Korby Sod does not recommend dethatching unless you know for a fact you have an excessive thatch issue. A thatch layer less than 1/2″ thick is not a problem. If the thatch layer gets thick enough that water and air have trouble getting to grass roots, that is excessive. To measure the thickness of thatch, poke through the brown layer of thatch to the top of the soil at the bottom of the grass blades. Measure the thickness of the thatch layer from there.  If you decide it’s needed, a vigorous raking or power raking for excessive thatch should only be done in late April or early May.

Start Preparing Your Lawn for Winter

Autumn, with its cooler temperatures and occasional rainfall, is the ideal time to prepare your lawn for next spring.

Many homeowners think lawns need less care in the fall because the grass grows more slowly. In fact, just the opposite is true. During this time of year, grass is busily absorbing energy, moisture, and nutrients in preparation for a long, dormant winter.

Give it a little attention now, and you’ll be rewarded with a lush, healthy spring lawn.

Keep Watering Your Lawn

With cooler temperatures you won’t need to water as much, but you still need to water–2-3 times per week (.5” to 1”) depending upon weather conditions. Water in the morning around 6:00 am. If you have blown out your irrigation system and the weather is mild and dry, use a hose and sprinkler.

Continue to Mow Your Lawn

Mow as needed, throughout the fall. As the season draws to a close, gradually drop the mower’s blade to its lowest setting for the last two cuttings of the year. As you lower the blade, remember not to trim off more than one-third of the grass blades at any one time. Shortening the cutting height will allow more sunlight to reach the crown of the grass. There will be less leaf to turn brown during the winter and less leaf to be matted down by snow.

Raking Leaves Weekly

It’s no one’s idea of fun, but it’s important to remove fallen leaves from your lawn as soon as possible. Don’t wait until all the leaves have fallen from the trees to start raking. Fallen leaves become wet from rain and morning dew, stick together, and form an impenetrable mat that can suffocate the grass and breed fungal diseases. An alternative to raking leaves is to use a lawnmower fitted with a collection bag or vacuum system.

Aerate the Soil

Fall is also an ideal time to aerate your lawn so that oxygen, water, and fertilizer can easily reach the grass’ roots. You can rent a gas-powered, walk-behind lawn aerator. The self-propelled machine will quickly punch holes into the soil and extract plugs of dirt. You can also simply hire a landscaping contractor.

Fall fertilization is the Most Important

Fall fertilization for future grass health, especially if you only fertilize once per year. Grass leaves grow much more slowly as the weather turns cool, but the grass roots and rhizomes continue to grow quickly. (Rhizomes are the horizontal plant stems that lie just beneath the soil’s surface; they produce the blades of grass above and the roots below.) A fall application delivers essential nutrients for the grass to grow deep roots and to keep nutrients on reserve for a healthy start next spring. Wait until mid-to-late fall, then apply a lawn WINTER fertilizer, which is specially formulated to be higher in potassium than regular lawn food. Potassium is the nutrient that makes grasses more winter hardy.

Time to control Weeds (Again!)

If broadleaf weeds like dandelions have taken over your lawn, now’s the time to fight back. Weeds, like most plants, are in the energy-absorbing mode during the fall. They’re drinking in everything that comes their way, including weed killers. Apply an herbicide now and the weeds won’t return in the spring. Read the package label before use. Most herbicide manufacturers recommend applying the weed killer during early-to-mid autumn, when daytime temperatures are consistently above 60 degrees Fahrenheit.

Overseeding

Autumn is a great time of year to overseed any bare, bald spots in your lawn. You can use plain seed or a repair mix that incorporates mulch. Make sure you buy the correct seed variety as your current lawn. Grasses are not all the same!!

The first step is to rake out some of the dead in the area. You don’t have to remove it completely. “Fan” a very thin layer of soil/compost mix over the area. Next, spread the seed lightly without overcrowding. Finally, lightly drag the seed into the soil with the back of your hand or the back of a rake. This will insure that the seed is in full contact with the ground, but not buried. Water every other day the seed bed moist while the seed grows.

CSU Lawncheck

Colorado State University provides an inexpensive, on-site lawn consultation service conducted by CSU horticultural specialists who will come to your home and make recommendations for improving your lawn and solving insect, disease and other lawn problems. For more information:

http://lawncheck.colostate.edu

CSU Lawncheck is currently available from Colorado State University Extension offices in

the following counties:

• Adams – (303)-637-8100
• Arapahoe – (303) 730-1920
• Boulder – (303) 678-6238
• Denver/Jefferson – (303) 271-6620
• Larimer – (970) 498-6000

A great resource, by phone or email If you have lawn questions, and there’s no charge. Your message should include a short, detailed description of the problem and its location in the landscape.