Here are some Spring Lawn Care Cleanup Basics:

Overall Clean-up: Mid-March is the time to get those fallen leaves, branches and neighborhood trash up from the yard and flower beds–in other words, spring cleanup! Power blowers work best, but if you don’t have a blower use a rake to get to the debris. Be sure to go lightly on the raking! If your lawn is still wet, wait to rake until it’s dry. Use a light raking to “fluff up” the lawn, separating grass shoots and increasing air circulation. Spring lawn cleanup is a great time to get a good overview of the state of your lawn– dead spots, matted patches, thatch or compacted soil. DON’T do a power raking or aeration on your lawn- YET. It’s advised that you avoid the practice of aggressively raking until the lawn if quite firm, usually in late April or even May. This will reduce the amount of damage to tender grass plants as they are breaking dormancy..  Also, be sure to clean up the dog poo while you’re out there– your lawn will thank you.

Test your Soil’s PH: There is no better way to save money on water and soil amendments than getting a handle on what your lawn actually needs. Do-it-yourself soil test kits are a great way to learn about soil health, and can be purchased at a home improvement store or your local nursery. You can also purchase testing meters that measure pH, moisture and light.  A soil test determines whether your soil is acidic, neutral or alkaline, and indicate which elements are missing and how much to add to remedy the problem. Since soil is made up of minerals, organic matter (living and dead), healthy soil provides nutrients and serves as a foundation for healthy plants. Improve your soil and plant health and enjoy a beautiful lawn or garden for a lifetime. 

CSU Lawncheck: CSU provides an inexpensive, on-site lawn consultation service conducted by CSU horticultural specialists who will come to your home and make recommendations for improving your lawn and solving insect, disease and other lawn problems.   For more information: http://lawncheck.colostate.edu

CSU Lawncheck is currently available from Colorado State University Extension offices in the following counties:

• Adams – (303)-637-8100
• Arapahoe – (303) 730-1920
• Boulder – (303) 678-6238
• Denver/Jefferson – (303) 271-6620
• Larimer – (970) 498-6000

CSU Extension office: A great resource, by phone or email If you have lawn questions, and there’s no charge. Your message should include a short, detailed description of the problem and its location in the landscape.

Overseeding:  Got bare patches or winter kill?  Spring lawn cleanup is also the perfect time to lay down seed to patch these areas. You can use plain seed or a repair mix that incorporates mulch.  The first step is to rake out some of the dead in the area. You don’t have to remove it completely. “Fan” a very thin layer of soil/compost mix over the area. Next, spread the seed lightly without overcrowding. Finally, lightly drag the seed into the soil with the back of your hand or the back of a rake. This will insure that the seed is in full contact with the ground, but not buried.

If you seed in late March, don’t water the new seed. The spring weather will probably take care of getting the seed off to a good start. In later April or May, you will need to water at once and keep the seed bed moist for 30 days while the seed grows.

Apply Fertilizer: Many homeowners apply way too much fertilizer at the first sign of green grass growth. In reality, the best thing to do is to apply a light amount of fertilizer in early spring, and then apply a larger dose a bit later in the season, after the initial growth rush. It may seem early to start fertilizing but if you’re looking for the “Best Yard on the Block” award, fertilizing now is going to help your lawn wake up quicker and stronger.

CSU – Homeowner’s Guide to Fertilizing your Lawn & Garden

Apply Pre-Emergent Herbicide: It’s often easier to fight weeds before they even emerge, rather than waiting until they rear their ugly heads. Mid-March is the best time to control crabgrass and other weeds, because they will not be growing yet but will begin to very soon. Herbicide is less effective once weeds have significantly grown and developed. At that point, good ol’ fashion weed plucking may be your best option.

Prepare your Mower: Would you allow a hairstylist to cut your hair with a pair of dull scissors? It’s time to tune-up your lawn mower and sharpen or replace your lawn mower blades.  Dull blades tear the grass leaf instead of cutting it smoothly. Tearing weakens the grass plant and can promote disease and insects. Be sure to clean matted grass from the underside of the mower.  Is it time for a new spark plug? Engine Oil? Fuel Filter? If you need assistance, consult an expert in your area.

Different grass types have different optimum mowing lengths. For Bluegrass and Fescue, a height of about 2 to 2.5 inches for the first few spring mowings is good.  After that you should raise the mowing deck to a height of about 3 inches. It’s never healthy for your lawn if you cut more than 1/3 of the grass height at a time, and be sure to sharpen those blades again in late July or early August if you have an average lot size. One last tip–change your mowing pattern each time you mow.  This will prevent wearing of track marks on your lawn.

Aeration: In late April, revisit your soil health by aerating.  Aeration involves perforating the soil with small holes to allow air, water and nutrients to penetrate the grass roots. This helps the roots grow deeply and produce a stronger, more vigorous lawn. The main reason for aerating is to alleviate soil compaction.

Dethatching: Healthy grass has some thatch. Korby Sod does not recommend dethatching unless you know for a fact you have an excessive thatch issue. A thatch layer less than 1/2″ thick is not a problem. If the thatch layer gets thick enough that water and air have trouble getting to grass roots, that is excessive. To measure the thickness of thatch, poke through the brown layer of thatch to the top of the soil at the bottom of the grass blades. Measure the thickness of the thatch layer from there.  If you decide it’s needed, a vigorous raking or power raking for excessive thatch should only be done in late April or early May.

Prepare the site properly. This will insure the best results when the sod is laid. Remove weeds and debris, rough grade low spots, rototill a minimum of 3 cubic yards of organics per 1,000 square feet at least 4 inches deep. Level and rake the installation site until it is smooth. Grade sidewalk and driveway areas approximately one and one half inch below the top of the concrete.

INSTALL SOD WITHIN 24 HOURS OF DELIVERY.

Immediately Following Sodding

Water your new sod three times daily for the first two weeks. The sod should be kept damp, about 1/2 inch per day for the first 2-3 days. Keep trarffic across the new sod to a minimum. Heavy traffic will separate and disturb the underlying grade. After three weeks, adjust the water times and sprinkler clocks to conform to the water restriction program in your area.

Water Your New Turf

Make certain that all areas of your new lawn are getting water. Corners and edges are sometimes missed by the sprinkler system. Look for areas that might slope causing water to run off. Water with a hose-end sprinkler if necessary. Early morning watering is best to take advantage of the grass’s normal growing cycle.

How Much Water

One inch per week is standard for most lawns but will vary with temperatures and sod variety.

First Mowing

Wait until your grass reaches a height of 3.5 inches to 4 inches before the first mowing. Adjust the height to approximately 3 inches and be sure the blades are sharp. Do not water the day before mowing. Do not remove more than 1/3 of the grass blade per mowing.

1. New Sod should be watered 3 times daily for the first two weeks. The sod should be kept damp.
2. All traffic across new sod should be kept to a minimum, as it separates seams and disturbs the underlaying grade.
3. KorbySod LLC will help start your irrigation system after the sod is installed. If there is a problem, please call the company that installed your irrigation system.

First Mowing

1. The first mowing can usually occur two or three weeks after installation or when the sod reaches a height of 3.5″ to 4″ tall
2. Adjust the height to approximately 3″ and be certain that the blades are sharp.
3. Do not water the day before mowing, as this will mat the foliage.
4. Repeat mowing procedures approximately once or twice per week during the growing season. Do not remove more than 1/3 of the grass blade per mowing. CAUTION: If large mowing equipment will be used, the turf may need to be allowed to dry for a longer period of time. Low areas will remain wet.

Weeding and Fertilization

1. After the first year, a pre-emergent should be used in early spring to keep the weeds to a minimum. You may find it necessary to use a broadleaf herbicide to help control encroaching weeds. Take care not to get the herbicide in your shrub beds.
2. At approximately six-week intervals, from April through October, fertilize your lawn with a well-balanced (20-10-5) fertilizer at the recommended rate. It is best to fertilize in two directions at 1/2 the recommended rate to assure proper coverage and overlap. Remember, more frequent, light applications will give you better color than less frequent heavy applications.

Here are some Spring Lawn Care Cleanup Basics:

Overall Clean-up: Mid-March is the time to get those fallen leaves, branches and neighborhood trash up from the yard and flower beds–in other words, spring cleanup! Power blowers work best, but if you don’t have a blower use a rake to get to the debris. Be sure to go lightly on the raking! If your lawn is still wet, wait to rake until it’s dry. Use a light raking to “fluff up” the lawn, separating grass shoots and increasing air circulation. Spring lawn cleanup is a great time to get a good overview of the state of your lawn– dead spots, matted patches, thatch or compacted soil. DON’T do a power raking or aeration on your lawn- YET. It’s advised that you avoid the practice of aggressively raking until the lawn if quite firm, usually in late April or even May. This will reduce the amount of damage to tender grass plants as they are breaking dormancy..  Also, be sure to clean up the dog poo while you’re out there– your lawn will thank you.

Test your Soil’s PH: There is no better way to save money on water and soil amendments than getting a handle on what your lawn actually needs. Do-it-yourself soil test kits are a great way to learn about soil health, and can be purchased at a home improvement store or your local nursery. You can also purchase testing meters that measure pH, moisture and light.  A soil test determines whether your soil is acidic, neutral or alkaline, and indicate which elements are missing and how much to add to remedy the problem. Since soil is made up of minerals, organic matter (living and dead), healthy soil provides nutrients and serves as a foundation for healthy plants. Improve your soil and plant health and enjoy a beautiful lawn or garden for a lifetime. 

CSU Lawncheck: CSU provides an inexpensive, on-site lawn consultation service conducted by CSU horticultural specialists who will come to your home and make recommendations for improving your lawn and solving insect, disease and other lawn problems.   For more information: http://lawncheck.colostate.edu

CSU Lawncheck is currently available from Colorado State University Extension offices in the following counties:

• Adams – (303)-637-8100
• Arapahoe – (303) 730-1920
• Boulder – (303) 678-6238
• Denver/Jefferson – (303) 271-6620
• Larimer – (970) 498-6000

CSU Extension office: A great resource, by phone or email If you have lawn questions, and there’s no charge. Your message should include a short, detailed description of the problem and its location in the landscape.

Overseeding:  Got bare patches or winter kill?  Spring lawn cleanup is also the perfect time to lay down seed to patch these areas. You can use plain seed or a repair mix that incorporates mulch.  The first step is to rake out some of the dead in the area. You don’t have to remove it completely. “Fan” a very thin layer of soil/compost mix over the area. Next, spread the seed lightly without overcrowding. Finally, lightly drag the seed into the soil with the back of your hand or the back of a rake. This will insure that the seed is in full contact with the ground, but not buried.

If you seed in late March, don’t water the new seed. The spring weather will probably take care of getting the seed off to a good start. In later April or May, you will need to water at once and keep the seed bed moist for 30 days while the seed grows.

Apply Fertilizer: Many homeowners apply way too much fertilizer at the first sign of green grass growth. In reality, the best thing to do is to apply a light amount of fertilizer in early spring, and then apply a larger dose a bit later in the season, after the initial growth rush. It may seem early to start fertilizing but if you’re looking for the “Best Yard on the Block” award, fertilizing now is going to help your lawn wake up quicker and stronger.

CSU – Homeowner’s Guide to Fertilizing your Lawn & Garden

Apply Pre-Emergent Herbicide: It’s often easier to fight weeds before they even emerge, rather than waiting until they rear their ugly heads. Mid-March is the best time to control crabgrass and other weeds, because they will not be growing yet but will begin to very soon. Herbicide is less effective once weeds have significantly grown and developed. At that point, good ol’ fashion weed plucking may be your best option.

Prepare your Mower: Would you allow a hairstylist to cut your hair with a pair of dull scissors? It’s time to tune-up your lawn mower and sharpen or replace your lawn mower blades.  Dull blades tear the grass leaf instead of cutting it smoothly. Tearing weakens the grass plant and can promote disease and insects. Be sure to clean matted grass from the underside of the mower.  Is it time for a new spark plug? Engine Oil? Fuel Filter? If you need assistance, consult an expert in your area.

Different grass types have different optimum mowing lengths. For Bluegrass and Fescue, a height of about 2 to 2.5 inches for the first few spring mowings is good.  After that you should raise the mowing deck to a height of about 3 inches. It’s never healthy for your lawn if you cut more than 1/3 of the grass height at a time, and be sure to sharpen those blades again in late July or early August if you have an average lot size. One last tip–change your mowing pattern each time you mow.  This will prevent wearing of track marks on your lawn.

Aeration: In late April, revisit your soil health by aerating.  Aeration involves perforating the soil with small holes to allow air, water and nutrients to penetrate the grass roots. This helps the roots grow deeply and produce a stronger, more vigorous lawn. The main reason for aerating is to alleviate soil compaction.

Dethatching: Healthy grass has some thatch. Korby Sod does not recommend dethatching unless you know for a fact you have an excessive thatch issue. A thatch layer less than 1/2″ thick is not a problem. If the thatch layer gets thick enough that water and air have trouble getting to grass roots, that is excessive. To measure the thickness of thatch, poke through the brown layer of thatch to the top of the soil at the bottom of the grass blades. Measure the thickness of the thatch layer from there.  If you decide it’s needed, a vigorous raking or power raking for excessive thatch should only be done in late April or early May.

Many people ask, “Doesn’t grass become dormant in the winter?”

While this is true, this usually does not occur until mid-November and during the winter months, our fluctuating winter temperatures cause the top few inches of the ground to thaw. When the soil warms above 40 degrees, grassroots start to grow, albeit slowly… and they get thirsty!!
In Colorado, we often get too little snow cover to provide this moisture for the entire winter. The typical light-fluffy snow does not contains little moisture content. Without supplemental watering, your roots could become weakened enough to die when stressed by warmer weather or disease. So even if your grass
is dormant, the roots still need some water to stay hydrated during the cold months.

“Won’t the water freeze at night and kill the grass?”

Cool-season grasses, such as Korby’s VorTex Hybrid Bluegrass Blend and Athletic Sports Turf Bluegrass Blend, are ideal for winter because they are freeze-resistant. So don’t worry about hurting the lawn. Freezing can be beneficial since it will disperse the water slowly when melting and it will freeze the good and bad “micro-critters,” preventing them from munching on the grass root system.

Be sure to water until your lawn goes dormant. Some lawns and plants don’t need winter watering. These include alternative lawns with blue grama grass and buffalograss, succulents, and cacti. They are native plants that are adapted to drying out during the winter.

If you haven’t watered during the winter– TRY IT!

We bet you’ll notice a big improvement in the Spring!!

Click to View / Download Winter Lawn Watering Guide Here

Time to start caring for your lawn to get it strong and healthy for the summer months. Having a great lawn begins in the spring! Here are some Spring Lawn Care Cleanup Basics:

Overall Clean-up: Mid-March is time to get those fallen leaves, branches and neighborhood trash up from the yard and flower beds. Power blowers work best, but if you don’t have a blower use a rake to get to the debris. Be sure to go lightly on the raking! If your lawn is s all wet, wait to rake un l it’s dry. Use a springy, light rake to “fluff up” the lawn, separate ng grass shoots and increasing air circulation on. Now is a great me to get a good overview of the state of your lawn– dead spots, ma􀀁ed patches, thatch or compacted soil. DON’T do a power raking or area on your lawn- YET. It’s advised that you avoid the practice of aggressively raking un l the lawn if quite firm, usually in late April or even May. This will reduce the amount of damage to tender grass plants as they are breaking dormancy.. Also, be sure to clean up the dog poo while you’re out there– your lawn will thank you.

Test your Soil’s PH : There is no better way to save money on water and soil amendments than going a handle on what your lawn actually needs. Do-it-yourself soil test kits are a great way to learn about soil health, and can be purchased at a home improvement store or your local nursery. You can also purchase testing meters that measure pH, moisture and light. A soil test determines whether your soil is acidic, neutral or alkaline, and indicate which elements are missing and how much to add to remedy the problem. Since soil is made up of minerals, organic matter (living and dead), healthy soil provides nutrients and serves as a foundation for healthy plants. Improve your soil and plant health and enjoy a beautiful lawn or garden for a lifetime.

CSU Lawncheck: CSU provides an inexpensive, on-site lawn consult on service conducted by CSU hor cultural specialists who will come to your home and make recommendations for improving your lawn and solving insect, disease and other lawn problems. For more information: http://lawncheck.colostate.edu

CSU Lawncheck is currently available from Colorado State University Extension offices in the following counties:

● Adams – (303)-637-8100
● Arapahoe – (303) 730-1920
● Boulder – (303) 678-6238
● Denver/Jefferson – (303) 271-6620
● Larimer – (970) 498-6000

CSU Extension office: A great resource, by phone or email If you have lawn questions, and there’s no charge. Your message should include a short, detailed description of the problem and its location on in the landscape.

Overseeding: Got bare patches or winter kill? Early spring is time to lay down seed to patch these areas. You can use plain seed or a repair mix that incorporates mulch. The first step is to rake out some of the dead in the area. You don’t have to remove it completely. “Fan” a very thin layer of soil/compost mix over the area. Next, spread the seed lightly without overcrowding. Finally, lightly drag the seed into the soil with the back of your hand or the back of a rake. This will ensure that the seed is in full contact with the ground, but not buried.

If you seed in late March, don’t water the new seed. The spring weather
will probably take care of getting the seed off to a good start. In later April or May, you will need to water at once and keep the seedbed moist for 30 days while the seed grows.

Apply Fertilizer: Many homeowners apply way too much fertilizer at the first sign of green grass growth. In reality, the best thing to do is to apply a light amount of fertilizer in early spring, and then apply a larger dose a bit later in the season, after the inial growth rush. It may seem early to start fertilizing but if you’re looking for the “Best Yard on the Block” award, fertilizing now is going to help your lawn wake up quicker and stronger.
CSU – Homeowner’s Guide to Fertilizing your Lawn & Garden

Apply Pre-Emergent Herbicide: It’s often easier to fight weeds before they even emerge, rather than wai ng un l they rear their ugly heads. Mid-March is the best me to control crabgrass and other weeds because they will not be growing yet, but will begin very soon. The herbicide is less effec ve once weeds have significantly grown and developed. At that point, good ol’ fashion weed plucking may be your best op on.

Prepare your Mower: Would you allow a hairstylist to cut your hair with a pair of dull scissors? It’s me to tune-up your lawn mower and sharpen or replace your lawn mower blades. Dull blades tear the grass leaf instead of cutting it smoothly. Tearing weakens the grass plant and can promote disease and insects. Be sure to clean ma􀀃ed grass from the underside of the mower. Is it me for a new spark plug? Engine Oil? Fuel Filter? If you need assistance, consult an expert in your area.
Different grass types have different op mum mowing lengths. For Bluegrass and Fescue, a height of about 2 to 2.5 inches for the first few spring mowings is good. After that, you should raise the mowing deck to a height of about 3 inches. It’s never healthy for your lawn if you cut more than 1/3 of the grass height at a time, and be sure to sharpen those blades again in late July or early August if you have an average lot size. One last p–change your mowing pattern each me you mow. This will prevent wearing of track marks on your lawn.

Aeration: In late April, revisit your soil health by aerating. Aerating on involves perforating the soil with small holes to allow air, water, and nutrients to penetrate the grassroots. This helps the roots grow deeper and produce a stronger, more vigorous lawn. The main reason for aerating is to alleviate soil compaction.

Dethatching : Healthy grass has some thatch. Korby Sod does not recommend dethatching unless you know for a fact you have an excessive thatch issue. A thatch layer less than 1/2ʺ thick is not a problem. If the thatch layer gets thick enough that water and air have trouble going to grassroots, that is excessive. To measure the thickness of thatch, poke through the grass un l you find the brown layer near the bottom of the grass blade. With your finger or a stick, poke a hole through the brown layer to the top of the soil. Measure the thickness of the thatch. A vigorous raking or power raking should only be done in late April or early May.

If you live on Colorado’s Front Range, you know that our weather patterns are anything but “normal.” Our warm dry days, low moisture, fluctuating temperatures and intense sunshine can create problems for your lawns– ESPECIALLY newer lawns that have not matured and become strong!

MANY PEOPLE ASK, “DOESN’T GRASS BECOME DORMANT IN THE WINTER?”

While this is true, our fluctuating winter temperatures cause the top few inches of the ground to thaw. When the soil warms above 40 degrees, grass roots start to grow, albeit slowly… and they get thirsty!! In Colorado, we often get too little snow cover to provide this moisture. And our often light-fluffy snow contains little moisture. Without supplemental watering, your roots could become weakened enough to die when stressed by warmer weather or disease. So even if your grass is dormant, the roots still need some water to stay hydrated during the cold months.

“WON’T THE WATER FREEZE AT NIGHT AND KILL THE GRASS?”

Cool season grasses, such as Korby’s VorTex Hybrid Bluegrass Blend and Athletic Sports Turf Bluegrass Blend, are ideal for winter because they are freeze-resistant. So don’t worry about hurting the lawn. Freezing can be beneficial since it will disperse the water slowly when melting and it will freeze the good and bad “micro-critters,” preventing them from munching on the grass root system.

When Should You Water?

• During prolonged dry periods. Water not only your lawn, but your trees, shrubs and perennials!
• Water only when air and soil temperatures are above 40 degrees with no snow coverage.
• Once or twice each each month from November to April, depending on the frequency of snow.
• Water during mid-day so it can soak into the soil before freezing at night.
• South and West lawn exposures are at the highest risk for winter injury.

How Should You Water

• Use a hose and sprinkler.
• Use enough water to saturate the lawn. Usually about .5 to 1 inch. Place a few flat-bottom containers in your yard to catch and measure the water
• Ensure that all parts of your lawn are receiving equal amounts of water. Pay attention to the edges and corners because those parts are easily missed. Areas near buildings also tend to dry faster; thus may need more water.
• Don’t forget to remove hose from spigot after watering to prevent damage.
• Some lawns and plants don’t need winter watering. These include alternative lawns with blue grama grass and buffalograss, succulents and cacti. They are native plants that are adapted to drying out during the winter.
• If you haven’t watered during the winter– TRY IT! We bet you’ll notice a big improvement in the Spring!!